The crisis is felt strong: the promotion is busted and the pairing with truffles represents the winning axis for the relaunch of the Marche wine.
An apparent disconnection between producers is real, with the great ones making a big voice and with the wine that hardly sells, the producers do not have a leader and the technical organization is full of gaps and contradictions.
Yet the winemakers are throwing their hearts over the obstacle and how.
In fact, ten producers together with the great cuisine of the master of Marche pasta Graziano Perna created the “Varano in bottle” event, directly at the Accipicchia farmhouse owned by the valid winemaker Giancarlo Polenta who works in the Portonovo Hill.
These are the producers present: Benforte di Cupramontana, Bruscia di San Costanzo, Cantina del Colli Ripani di Ripatransone, Capriotti di Castelplanio, Tenute Carlini di Fiorenzuola di Focara, Pollenza di Tolentino, MarascaRossi di Monte Roberto, Montecappone di Jesi, Rio Maggio di Montegranaro and Polenta from Ancona; all excellent wines paired with Giovanni Perna’s traditional Marche pasta and the cured meats of Marche Salumi di Camerano and local meats; obviously in the end an excellent coffee at Varnelli could not be missing.
The regional promotion linked to Conero wines has always been a debacle, except on a really inopportune occasion, where it was decided to combine Rosso Conero with Portonovo wild mosciolo: an unprecedented nonsense.
How can a Montepulciano, rich in tannins and structure, ever court a shellfish that is eaten raw and freshly caught.
It would take a sweet bubble or at least a fresh rosé, young and easy to drink; here too everything was wrong, due to incompetence or inadequacy.
It is inevitably difficult and complex to taste such a demanding red wine by the sea in summer; but it is certainly nice to try with rosy and fragrant versions or polite bubbles, useful to give an example of the versatility of this grape.
Conero is the most beautiful land in the Marche region, the mountain that touches the sea and the sea that with its breeze offers flavor to the rows and vineyards of Montepulciano: a vine that has substance and strength but also fine elegance.
The wines of the Marche are suffering starting from Verdicchio: a wine of high rank but which is sold on the market at absolutely ridiculous prices. So I wonder, what has the promotion been for up to now: absolutely nothing.
Especially since from Matelica they decided, with its historic Verdicchio di Matelica to remove the name Verdicchio from the disciplinary and the label of the bottles.
This explains a lot about how the term Verdicchio is perceived on the markets, but above all how the distinctiveness of the territory is much higher than a promotion of the Verdicchio grape that has always been busted.
The conclusion is soon drawn: we need a new model of integrated promotion, carried out by valid communication professionals, which unites the two current consortia in a single brand and speaks to the world with a single voice. The slogan is: all producers together for a wine from the Marches that completes itself.
